Templet for the manufacture of cuffs.



J I. McD ONALD. TEMPLET FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CUFFS.

. APPLICAIION FILED JULY 28,1915.

Patented Jan. 1,1918; v ii. I 2 SHEETS-SHEETI- J. McDO'NALD. TEMPLET FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CUFFS, APPLICATION FILED JULY 28.1915. 1,251,677.

I SA.

UNITED STATES PATENT oEEioE.

JOHN I. MCDONALD,

JOSEPH, MISSOURI.

TEMPLET FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CUFFS.

Application filed July 28, 1915.

To all whom. it may concern Be it known that 1, JOHN I. lNloDoNALD, a citizen of the United States, residing at St. Joseph, in the county of Buchanan and State of Missouri, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Templets for the Manufacture of Cuffs, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to templets for the manufacture of cuffs and is an improvement on the templet set forth in my Patent No. 688,961, dated December 17, 1901.

The templet set forth in my aforesaid patent is adapted more particularly for the manufacture of cuffs of the soft or unlaundered types, because where starch is to be used, it is preferable to have the edge seam of the cuffinside thereof as this seam, if it lies along the edge, will render rough and jagged the cuff if it is starched.

My present invention embodies improvements whereby a plurality of plies or thicknesses of the cloth which in the subsequently turned cuff constitute the outside thereof,

.4 are provided with considerable fullness as compared with the lower thickness or that part which constitutes the inner face of the subsequently turned cuff, the purpose of such fullness being to provide extra cloth in the outside of the cuff when it is folded over so that the seam joining the outside and inside thicknesses of the cuff along the edge, is brought over to the inside of the cuff when the latter is turned. The improvements I have provided in the templet afiord in the cuff being sewn, the necessary fullness so that when the cuff is subsequently turned, it will present the seam on the inside of the cuff' and not along its outer edge, and thus the cuff will be adapted to starching with out being rendered rough and jagged along its edge.

The invention consists of the provision of a double clamping lid or top to the templet,

embodying an outer or upper skeleton frame or lid and a second or intermediate lid located between the bottom plate and the said skeleton lid and with which the skeleton lid is adapted to cooperate to hold the cloth, the intermediate lid being of such thickness and improved form that it automatically provides for the fullness in the plies or thicknesses of the cuff which subsequently become in the turned cuif, the outer part thereof. Preferably, the bottom plate having the rack by which the templet is fed in a sewing ma- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 1, 1918.

Serial No. 42,322.

chine is substantially the same construction as in my aforesaid patent.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the templet with the bottom and skeleton frame opened out flat and the intermediate lid standing perpendicularly Fig. 2, a plan view with the templet folded or closed;

Fig. 3, a bottom view of the templet;

Fig. 1, a cross section on line 1%, Fig. 1;

Fig. 5, a plan view showing the stitched thicknesses in the templet, the latter being closed;

Fig. 6, a cross section through Fig. 5;

Fig. 7, a cross section through Fig. 2;

Fig. 8, a bottom view of the intermediate section of the lid; and Fig. 9, a view looking toward the inner face'of the finished cuff.

As in my Patent No. 688,961, the bottom plate 1 of the templet is flat, preferably a piece of sheet met-a1, and provided on its under face with a frame 2 having teeth 3 (Fig. 3) adapted to be engaged by the feed pawl of the sewing machine. Struck-up gage lips f are adapted to engage the inner edge of the single ply or thickness 5 (Fig. 6) of the material.

Hinged to the frame 2 at 6 is the interme diate orinner clamp plate, lid, or falling member 7 constituting a part of the present improvements. The lid or falling member 7 is preferably of wood, being provided with concavities S to receive the gage lips 4c to permit the lid to fold down flat on the ply 5 (Fig. 6) or for the templet to close together, as shown in Fig. 7. The lid or clamp plate 7 is. provided with rounded edges 9 at its ends and free edge over which the plurality of plies 10 of the material for forming the cuff pass before lying on the upper face of the lid or clamp plate 7, as shown in Fig. 6. Gage lips 11 are provided on the lid or clamp plate 7 to engage the inner edge of the plies 10.

The thickness of the lid falling member or clamp plate 7, in connection with the rounded edges 9 thereof, provides for suitable fullness in the plies 10 so that after the cuff has been stitched, as shown at 12, Fig. 6, and is turned, as shown in Fig. 9, the completed cuif will have its seam 13 located inwardly from its outer edge 14 on itsinner face 15. The completed cuff of Fig. 9, therefore, shows nearest the observer the single ply 5 (Fig. 6) as constituting the inner face of the cuff and the plurality of plies 10 constituting the outer face of the cuff. The usual stitching 16 is provided in the finished cuff.

For drawing the plies 10 over the intermediate lid or clamp plate 7, and clamping the edge of the plies 5 and 10 against the bottom plate 1, I provide the outer or skeleton lid 17 which is hinged at 18 to the bottom plate 1, preferably directly to the frame :2. The skeleton frame or lid 17 is provided with a beveled inner face 19 to properly press the curved portion of the plies 10 against the rounded edges 9 of the intermediate clamp plate or lid 7, as shown in Fig. 6. There may be provided pins 20 on the outer lid or frame 17 to engage the plies 5 and 10 to assist in holding them in the templet, and holes 21 may be provided in the frame 2 to receive said pins.

Instead of clamping the thicknesses of the cuff to be sewn directly between the bottom plate 1 and the lid or clamp plate, as in my Patent No. 688,961, I interpose the improved plate or lid 7 and make an outer lid 17 as an open frame to hold the edges of the material, and by this construction, fullness is provided in the material prior to stitching on the sewing machine, which subsequently, when the cuff is turned, brings the seam or edge 18 inwardly of or below the outer edge 14 of the finished cuff, Fig. 9.

When the templet is being run through a sewing machine, the presser foot runs on the lid 17, as in my patent.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is:

1. A templet for the manufacture of cuffs and the like, comprising plates, one of which is sutliciently thick to provide a fullness i the material held by said plates and has a beveled edge along one side and across both ends.

2. A templet for the manufacture of cuffs and the like, comprising plates, one of which is suiiiciently thick to provide a fullness in the material held by said plates and has a beveled edge along one side and across both ends, and an open or skeleton outer plate located eXteriorly of the relatively thick plate and adapted to hold the edge of the fabric against the bottom plate and said beveled edge of the relatively thick plate.

3. A templet for the manufacture of cuffs and the like, comprising a bottom clamp plate, an intermediate clamp plate hinged to the bottom clamp plate and of sufficient thickness to provide a fullness in the material overlying said intermediate clamp plate, and an outer skeleton lid arranged exteriorly of the relatively thick clamp plate and adapted to hold the edge of the material against the bottom plate along one side and across both ends.

-l. A templet for the manufacture of cufis and the like, comprising a bottom clamp plate, an intermediate clamp plate hinged to the bottom clamp plate and of sufficient thickness to provide a fullness in the material held by said plates, said relatively thick plate having a beveled edge along one side and across both ends, and an outer hinged skeleton frame arranged exteriorly of the relatively thick clamp plate and provided with a beveled edge adapted to cooperate with the material where it-passes over the beveled edge aforesaid, said skeleton frame serving to hold the material against the bottom plate and against the outer face of the relatively thick plate.

5. A templet device for holding the several layers of'cloth which compose a eufi' or the like while the same are being stitched together, comprising an inner falling member and external clamping means disposed beyond the fulling member on three sides thereof .adaptedto so hold certain of said layers that a predetermined fullness will result therein along three sides thereof after they are sewn to the other layers.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN I. MCDONALD. lVitnesses L. H. VVILLLmrs, OLIvE L. VVAGNER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, 1). C. 

